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DIY 40W CNC Laser Cutter, From Bad to Better With 3D Printing
Optimize the ratio of floor space to working space of DIY Lasercutter.
If you build from scratch, I will do my best to cover what people can do to save money or optimize parts.
These sites/lasers have a great impact on my decision and provide a lot of alternatives and knowledge on the topic of building and converting lasers
CUTTER: building log. net 2.
Point the laser, the Lasersaur construction laser cutting machine is on the Instructables.
Before we start the business, use common sense during and after the build.
This is not a complete project!
I am posting it now to take part in the running race by showing the potential of 3D printing.
This is not a rookie project!
This instructable is also not meant to hold your hand by making a laser!
Therefore, be cautious and risk yourself.
Making any part of the laser can be harmful, if you are not careful after completing the laser, then there will still be a lot of potential harmful ingredients to use the laser!
The project has been going on for a year from demolition to budget signing --off :)
And then some, that\'s why I can\'t cover everything and the original sketch has \"disappeared --. -(
I know that the real man should back up or the real man will cry for the lost file! ).
Ask questions or ask for help at any time.
Laser specification: Working cut area 90 cm x 45 cm x 10 cm, packed in 110 cm x 70 cm x 30 cm aluminum-frame. The (x,y)
Control the shaft through rev. 0. 4 LAOS-
Connect to the board on Visicut running on Windows. The (z)-
Control the shaft manually.
Run all non
A slightly modified laser tube project for the 150 w atx power unit. 40W laser tube.
Cooling by the Laing DDC pump through the reserve 2.
My goal is to create a laser that works 40 W. cutter.
High cutting areato-
Cover area ratio.
Share my thoughts and work progress.
Show the possibility of 3D printing.
Tools used: normal sensea RepRap, I have printed most parts and reused some parts from my k40eg.
The laser tube holder, but can also be printed out. Common tools (
Drill bit, wise/clamps, multi-tool, Dremel, Hex and Torx, wrench, etc. )
Digital angles identify important information: I don\'t want to lower or boil any of this so it can adapt to the situation, read the source, it\'s your health.
If I win: my love of 3D printing has cooled down a bit in the last two years, mainly because when you run multiple extruder, ofdm will only be as good or close as SLA (ABS+water-
Soluble Material supported)
, Still not as close to the resolution as I thought.
I like the fact that I can make a part or toy with my child, and a few hours later I see it pop up and explain these things to her, but the ABS that have problems --
I have reduced the residue of running any type of 3D printer near my living space, and I would like to be able to do structural and creative printing again in a supervised environment, form 1 of formlabs will be given to me.
I believe I started buying K40III two years ago when I used it for some projects and had some fun with it.
However, every time I have to re-learn to use this software, this software kills me because it is too unintuitive, there is a lot of strange noise, there is a faulty line, an open 20kV laser PSU, this list is still going on in my case, so if you have one and plan to convert it, then that would be a good idea.
I have had experience building CNC tables and restated some of the gains from scratch, and after looking at what is available in terms of knowledge, I know I can re-build it into something better.
If you have enough money and space though, I would suggest you buy 50 w laser on eBay like I did, and I know it may sound the opposite --
Intuitive, but you will learn a lot from having one of them.
Do your research and you may get a DSP, compressor, decent water pump and some other nice parts, but also check, are you able to buy all the same parts cheaper separately locally, you know you want a full laser, not just an idea!
If you buy a laser of K40 or other Chinese brands
Cutter, think about making a switch with the Lao people.
The controller, if the software is really annoying, is also the only reason you feel the laser is limited.
I reuse the stepping motor, the laser tube and the power supply, some odd parts and bobs, and convert some metal into useful parts for the new laser.
I \'ve seen the K40 laser with a nice bed and a Z-
Tables, compressors, a better interface, but these can cost a lot more than DIY routes if you don\'t consider the cost of RepRap.
Most of the rest of the K40 is also used for other projects, and I have more to come, so I\'m glad I did, plus, if I want, I can cut some parts for the new laser.
Aluminum profile: I ordered it through Motedis because I am in Denmark and this is the cheapest I can find.
I bought it: 20x20b-
Type slot 6 length: 1060mm x 8, 2 can be added to the cover, and x can be added to the stiffness.
Length: 300mm x 4 length: 660mm x 4, cover can be more than 4.
Length: 2000mm for quick bumps and other items.
I had to cut an extra thing for Y-64mm long
If you plan to copy the build for 1:1 instead of using the build for 1:1, the shaft step can also be purchased directly.
A double ball of the lid grabs x 2, these haven\'t been implemented yet, and I\'m not sure they will be implemented without some hacking.
Linear guide misc.
Vitamins: I ordered through OpenBuilds PartsstoreI and can\'t find t-
Nuts are cheaper anywhere as you need a LOTi to decide to buy a linear track from here.
You can talk to V-
Purchase by designing and changing slots with 2 lengths of 66 cm to V-
Slot extrusion and built-in track-in.
However, I will lose the cutting space in the design because of kissing the straight track stage.
I love kissing, but my footprint here is a priority instead of saving time.
You get less printed parts but more machines because you can click X-
Squeeze directly onto the OpenBuild board, which will be on the V-
Slot, but as you can see in the picture, you need to find at least 1mm along the Y-line
Stage for this integrated feature.
I bought: OpenRail-black anodized 1000mm x 6 tee nut (25 Pack)
X8, buy a lot, this is speculation.
OpenBuilds dual V wheel kit x 95mm MXL aluminum timing pulley x 3MXL (1/4″)
Timing Belt x 20 eccentric gasket x 3 smooth Idler wheel Kit x 3 low profile screws M5 x what do you think you need.
I used 6mm around the laser to make something random, but most of the time 10mm, you need these to install the guide rail, and some complete print.
Also, these are not the cheapest, but they are certainly the lowest profile I \'ve found.
I like them :)X & Y-
Shaft step and Z-
Stage belt: I ordered it through Zapp Automation Co. , Ltd.
I bought it: SY35ST28-
0504A high torque hybrid stepping motor for X-1
5mm spacing (9MM Width), 2525-5M-
9mm x 1 for Z-
Shaft, size on hand when ordering, I printed the pulley and saved a lot of money on it. Y-
Shaft: I also bought a few double shafted ones that took the class 16 and tried the size of the laser that looked smooth.
It won\'t happen to me, but it should happen to you!
I\'m just tired of throwing money at the laser without any progress, because we\'re talking about mm for cutting space, but later, many hackers measure the size of the laser skin by scrapping a building that meets the film Association 11.
Because I kissed at the critical stage, all you can do is buy two SY28STH51-
0674A high torque hybrid stepping motor and directly in two Y-
Stage pulley which should give you enough torque and speed to run Y-
Skip the stage.
I bought the same model, but with double limitations, it will work on a smaller stage, but it is not good to run longer on this scale and sometimes stall.
The compensation I did was to adopt my original k40 Y-
In the new laser, stage dual shafted took a stepping motor that met the usb 17 standard and the result was good, no problem.
Unfortunately, this stepping motor is a non-branded stepping motor, so it\'s not a big deal for you, but I\'m sure most of the old kangmu 17 will drive my settings. Misc.
Vitamins: most nuts and bolts are ordered from these guys TJ bolte, this is a Danish site, so anyone can guess if they want to ship it to you.
I bought it from the size and cheap stuff, but I think it\'s easy to use it in terms of tools, so I only chose the inner hex bolts.
Black of course, unless stainless steel is much cheaper :).
These bolts are the M3, M5 and M6 sizes I use and I bought the bolts of these sizes which are suitable for all interiors.
If you do not have the ability to reduce the size when needed, you can get a variety of sizes.
I don\'t have the number of bolts and nuts and I don\'t plan to take it apart to make the kit :)
I use M3 for step installation (
If you are using 16 x m2 then you need 8 pcs x m2.
5 with correct length)
And installation of various electronic equipment.
M5 for general structure of frame and shaft.
M6 for building Z-
Because it has a higher tension and a larger belt spans a larger distance, you can also easily scale the pulley group to M5 if you are going to rebuild the pulley group to support both sides of the pulley group.
I used 4 x M6x25 and loose nut in total.
I use M5 rebar on Y-for power driveaxis.
I have M6 rebar and (lock)
Nuts on hand for Z-
Stage and other small things.
In order to combine all this, I chose simple angleiron from the local hardware store, such as these.
Some of them I \'ve grinded but ended up finding everything I needed in the right dimensions.
8 od smoothrod often month × 30 cm (frontmounting), 2 x 18 cm(backmounting)
2x90 cm of Z-stage table. From Alumeco (
International companies, they ship to the entire EU at least)
I bought it: 1 long 1000mmx40x20 L-
X-shaped aluminum profile as a platform
Stage cable towing chain and lighting installation.
Two lengths of the 6000mmx20x2 plate, chopped and drilled at 56 cm to produce Z-stage table.
The ball bearings used are: ID 5mm bearings (
Bearing ABEC 9, Tiangong 1150)
X4 used when running Y-
Shaft double axis.
Bearing ID 6mm (MR126 ZZ)for the Z-
The first phase uses 16 pieces, two for each installation block, to be purchased according to the print/usage quantity you plan.
Bearing ID 8mm (LM8UU)x 4 for the Z-stage motion.
The cable drag chain is 2000mm in length and I managed to run my air assist and all the lines through these devices and they are only suitable for one extrusion.
Perfect for a comfortable environment!
Controller: you can choose a lot of different settings from Smoothieboard, Laos, custom GRBL settings and the list goes on.
You can also make DSP settings if you want to enjoy it.
I received a Lao controller board kit earlier this year and I am running the Lao board rev 0.
4 Lao I2C display board rev0.
3. Since then, the Lao project has been transferred to rev. 0.
5 Fixed the hardware error, significantly simplifying the I/O of the controller board in general, so they are all arranged on one side of the board.
I really like the fact that I can do a good carving in the process of cutting without having to separate the two and without having to compile my own g-
Code and combine to complete the complete work that requires engraving and cutting.
For wiring, etc.
Take a look at their website linked above and it explains everything in detail.
I replaced the 1/16 micro-step Drive in stock with 1/32 DRV8825, and in order to reduce the noise and improve the accuracy, they reduce the replacement, so everything is OK.
Limited switch: I used 2, they are easy to use, on-board LED for visual confirmation, plug type is compatible with Lao board, I put them in drawer :)
Wiring: I am using flat Ethernet wiring, my cable has single core leads and I wrap these leads together to run the stepping motor in both directions
Polar, the advantage of a flat Ethernet cable is that it can be routed along the extrusion inside it.
Even in the process of model making, I am a huge fan of cable management.
For the limit switch, I have some rainbow band cables laid around me, using something floating on your boat, but please note that if it is not shielded and running, turn off the high voltage cable, there may be some false signals when operating the device.
Connector: I am using the same Lao board as currently purchased here, and if it is more suitable for you, you can swap some with these screw terminals.
Power Circuit: E-
This is a must!
The hot fuse is in the line before the power is on/off, these can be found in some appliances, but I recommend buying new ones.
Place multiple so you can start processing before an emergency spreads.
Create an internal power circuit in which you can plug in the compressor and pump and run them from.
It\'s convenient and convenient to connect them to electronic devices. stop switch, e. g.
Run the powerstrip attached to it. Misc.
Safety equipment: Fire safety goggles for running the laser fire extinguisher I got from the pool bag water flow protection circuit laser: you need a laser tube like this. This is a 50 w laser tube, I designed an upgrade to such a laser tube.
I am currently running a 40 w laser like this and you also need a PSU like this which will also drive a 50 w laser and need some software PWM limitation, otherwise it will destroy your 40 w laser tube for a period of time.
Cooling: I have installed the laser tube with 8mm ID water pipe aprx. 3m in total.
Scrap the laser tube when you receive it, or if it is carried with you.
The surgical hose will dry up and break if you are not careful.
The water pump is a Laing DDC pump recovered from the old PC water cooling circuit.
I am now running the loop through the reservation 2 radiator and I am not setting it up for the full operation.
I would suggest opening it up, like everyone else, through a bucket or some kind of big container.
But it seems to me that the laser is running in the apartment and the booking 2 is really good.
No matter what you decide, hold it.
Air assist: as my air assist, I\'m running an Airbrush Compressor and still looking for a flap valve or writing-
Up to better control when cutting acrylic.
1/4 PVC, hose (8mm/6mm)
, Deliver the air to the Air Auxiliary nozzle. Pneumatic 12mm-
1/4 \"BSPT male/female accessories, 1 male nozzle, 1 compressor, 1 skin, female correspondence.
Air assist nozzle, I have designed and tested two different nozzles and I am still confused about running the print nozzle.
I haven\'t bought a machined one yet, but if you don\'t like it or fiddle with it or order printed parts off-site, I would recommend buying one.
You can find all the parts I made here.
These are all individually printed parts required for my own installation copy: 8 x Z-
Table framework. stl2/4 x Z-
Stl, depending on whether your back will be flush or not. the \"Z-
Stl \"and extended version. 2 x Z-
Table_mount_back_tableside. stl1+1+? x Z-
Table_tension_block. ipt, 2 x Z-Axis_cran_knob. stl1+? x Pulley_lille. stl1 x Z-axis_crank. Poole _ t-MXL-XL-HTD-GT2_N-tooth.
Stl1 x Nema_17_Y-
Stl1 x Laser_Homing_mount_X-axis.
Stl1 x Laser_Homing_mount_Y-axis. stl4 x Y-axis_5mm-5mm_coupling_M3. stl2 x Y-
Axis_pulley_aligner. stl2 x Y-stage_X-stage_carrier. stl1 x X-
Stage_mirror focus _ carrier. stl1 x X-
As far as I know, stl needs support in most printers.
Month x 1st_mount.
In addition to the obvious carrying items, when you remove the laser cutter with this PSU (
My laser design was originally built around it)
, Remember not to try to unplug the plug on the resistance of the green ballast, they are welded in place and you will most likely break a very thin lead which will make it arc, and your laser is not working.
When you pull back the case, use a hot soldering iron to quickly dap and they pop up right away. Z-
Stl3 x M5 x123 x M5 T-
Nut1 x mr109 ZZ, presfit1 x M3x81 x M3 nut, presfitz-
Stl1 x M6 nut, press fit1 x LM8UU, press fit, it should slide to the right if the tolerance is too tight and the bearing is heated. Z-
Stl 1 x M6 nut, press fit1 x LM8UU, press fit, Please heat the bearing if the tolerance is too tight and slide to the right. Z-
Stl2 x M5x122 x M5 T
Nut 1 x M6 lock nut, press 1 x M6x25Z-Axis_cran_knob.
Stl 1 x M3 locknutZ-axis_crank.
Stl 1 x M3x81 x M3 nut, presfitpulley _ lille.
Zzpulley _ t-MXL-XL-HTD-GT2_N-tooth.
Stl 2 x mr109 ZZ1 x M3x81 x M3 nut, presfita _ 17 _ y-
Stl 8-12 M3x85 x M5x65 x M5 teenutLaser_Homing_mount_X-axis.
Stl1 x M5x101 x M5 teenut1 x M3 (lock)
Nut, presfit1 x M3x8Y-axis_5mm-5mm_coupling_M3.
Stl 2 x M3 nut, presfit, adhesive, easy to assemble
Stl month x M5x102 x M5 9Y teenut2 × Tamiya Tiangong 1150 bearing ABEC-stage_X-stage_carrier.
Stl 3 x Delrin wheel kit, openbuild, remove the shims and follow their instructions.
Month x eccentric spacer3x M5x103 x M5 teenut month M5x14 x M5 nut, presfitx-
Stage_mirror focus _ carrier.
Stl3 x Delrin wheel kit, openbuild, remove the washing machine and follow their instructions.
1 x eccentric gasket, used on a single wheel slot, not a gasket.
2 x M5 x143 x M5 nut, pressure 1 length of M5 screw bar, can be used for cable drag chain x-
Stl4 x M3x102 x M5x102 x M5 teenut1 x csm 14 step per1 x 5mm MXL aluminum timing pulse 1 st _ mirror _ mount.