Professional Customization Expert For Industrial Laser Machine&Laser Cleaning Machine

3d printer enclosure from upcycled furniture

by:QUESTT     2020-06-02
After buying a 3d printer recently, I quickly noticed that despite the calibration, there was still some temperature-
Related issues
The most important thing is the time when the bed is heated. unless the door is closed and the curtain is opened, the room cannot keep the temperature.
This caused another problem and I was overheating!
We also encountered the layering problem of larger fingerprints in ABS.
Problems that can be solved by keeping the printer in a warm environment.
I put a few \"missing\" tables at Ikea, and I noticed that when stacked with each other, the printer was almost perfect for the inside, which made me think of creating a shell for the printer, how hard is it?
After doing some research, I decided on something I wanted and with this in mind, I went online and bought the parts I needed to buy, grabbed the STLs parts and I could print the parts. Many tools and many of the suggestions used in this building are provided by my loca Makerspace Southampton it Southampton.
First of all, pour down your two tables.
You want to drill these holes down.
Centered at the bottom of the leg, like drilling holes at the top of another table, there is a metal screw for connecting the table top to the leg.
Once you drill holes at the bottom of your leg, use them as a guide and drill to the top of another table.
Apply some wood glue to the wood needle and insert it into the hole to make sure they are tight.
Then apply some glue on the other end of the pin and some glue on the top of the table.
Place the table on another table, use some gentle force, press down on the table until the pin is fully in place.
Don\'t be too enthusiastic about this component until it dries overnight.
The additional benefit of connecting the two tables together is a substantial increase in stability, which will help reduce the vibration of the printer.
This can be the wall on the right, if you want.
Where I put the printer means it\'s easier to access these controls on the left.
First, mark the hole before you start drilling-
You want to make sure you have enough space for everything.
The items on this side are: when drilling, you need to make sure that the bit you are using is not stuck
This can cause the arcrylic piece to break, which is not good for a very good shell.
Do this by starting at 2mm/3mm bits and working at the size you need.
For larger circles, center them with a little hole saw in the middle.
Slow down, be careful not to stick the blade-
Arcrylic melts around the blade and may stick to the blade.
For square holes (
Voltmeter and thermometer)
I use a rotating tool with a cutting disc.
For example, the third picture has not yet removed the protective film.
It will be much easier to use a laser cutter
I highly recommend you to use one of them if you have permission.
These walls are much easier than the ones on the left.
The front wall needs only eight holes to connect the handle.
Place the handle on the paper to mark where the hole needs to be and drill holes.
The right wall can be left-
The back wall requires a mounting hole for the power supply and print controller.
It also needs a hole for the four fluorine thin tube to pass through and there is a hole under the print controller of the wire.
Now the glue has time to dry (
At least for me, this is the beginning of the next day)
First, put some screws into the power rack-
I\'m going to make this place quite self-contained.
Only one power cord and Ethernet cable is required.
Be careful when drilling pilot holes because the manufacturing cost is very low --
The walls are very thin.
If you can get in touch with some, you can inject an expanded foam and provide something for the screw to catch better.
Then you will want to measure and drill holes to install angular support
These will be used to save the arcrylic pieces.
My is placed in 3 positions \"from the leg\" so that from the edge of the table the arcrylic piece will be kept around 1.
There are curly brackets on the top and bottom tables.
To fit the gap, you may need to cut/polish your arcrylic sheet, and I need to remove about 5mm of the material from the short edges of all my sheets.
Lean the paper against the corner brace and mark the position where the holes need to be drilled to install the bolts.
Drill out the hole, be careful not to break the arcrylic, test the arcrylic first before removing the protective sheet.
During the test installation, I used some hot glue around the braces to provide more stability.
Don\'t drill holes in front of the arcrylic film-
Next we will install the magnet.
Use epoxy to attach four magnets to some angular support
I put the magnet inside the holder and you get a stronger appeal, so if the magnet is on the outside of the holder you get a stronger door.
After the epoxy resin is solidified, twist the bracket to the frame (
Magnets may want to steal your screws, be careful! )
And epoxy resin in place.
When the epoxy sleeve, I use the concealer to bring to prevent the top bracket from falling off.
Then, peel off the protective film from the front door arcrylic and place it on the braces.
Mark the position of the magnet with a marker pen.
Epoxy resin four more magnets to arcrylic.
At this point, you should decide which side of the front of the door is based on the strength of the magnet.
Connect and tighten the handle.
Cut out three light strips, Weld some wires at one end, red on the front and black on the ground.
Using some 12 v rated wires and some heat shrink tubes, I connected three belts in parallel and routed them to the left side of the housing where another line occurred.
According to the chart, I connected all the components, leaving two wires for 12 v input and ground, which will be connected to the 12 v power supply running the printer.
Peel off the protective film on the back of the rear arcrylic sheet and connect the power and print controller.
Connect the Pi bracket using epoxy resin.
Fix the panel on the back of the case and re-
Connect the wires on the printer to the controller.
If you have an LCD, it\'s better to put this cable on top of the case and secure it there.
Once the wiring is complete, peel off the film and attach the right panel.
After tightening all the bolts that attach the wall to the frame, wrap rin around the edge of arcrylic with silicone sealant.
When applying a silicone sealant, you compress the silicone a little, so after releasing the trigger, the silicone keeps flowing out of the nozzle.
Keep this in mind less and you will make a mess!
Without connecting the power supply to the printer, connect two wires from the chassis wiring and run the test.
Ensure all components are working properly and the voltage reading is stable.
Once the silicone is dry, you can test your case.
Cut down some small things and print them out.
You should notice that the bed is heated faster (
It shortened my time by about 20 minutes)
The temperature inside the shell should rise slowly.
I broke through around 40c.
I tested the extractor fan after the print was done, which is not exciting --
Because I forgot to include an intake.
Opening the door allows some airflow, and the temperature inside quickly returns to room temperature.
With the housing, the temperature in the room where the printer is located is much more comfortable, which is the biggest benefit so far in summer.
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